Jan in Germany writes:

"Hello, Enrico.

I got problems with my Maserati 2.24v from 1990. Injection is great Fuel pump very well but it doesn't start right.

The engine has on cylinder 1* and 2* full compression. 6 Bar pressure.

On the 3* cylinder nothing.

4* 5* 6* cylinder 2 bar pressure. Too low.

Where is the mistake ? Cylinder broken or valve maybe a seal ?

The timing point I got right. Mark are on the position.

Best regards Jan."

Kevin in the UK writes:

Re: 2.24v heater problems.

"More woes I'm afraid - and I'm sure its something I've seen on your site but of course can't find it now. In the end I took the 2.24v to the local classic car garage, they put the coolant system under pressure and found the dodgy hose. Turned out it was the one I originally suspected - that attaches to the back of the head.

Brilliant news ... but now my heater doesnt work! There is no power to the dash unit and I could have sworn it was working fine before I got the work done - but of course I can't prove it. I've checked the fuse box and what I believe to be the relay (3rd one from the left at the back of the engine) and that looks ok too. The garage have checked all connections in the vicinity of their work but can see nothing.

I've never had any problems with the electrics before (apart from one side light that is) - and the fusebox was replaced just before I bought the car 18 months ago.

Any suggestions welcomed as ever.

Many thanks,

Kevin."

Kevin in the UK writes:

Re: 2.24v fuel leakage.

"Hi Enrico,

One step forward - 25 back !

Thought I had it sussed after moving the airbox up and tightening all hoses beneath it. However I now have a petrol leak ! A previous owner has crossthreaded where the pipe that comes from the airbox connects to the injector unit.

This union is held on by a large nut (banjo union??) Is it possible to replace this union without dismantelling the whole engine? Also the petrol seems to be under pressure is there any way to relieve this while I replace the knackered union? I've removed the petrol cap ... but this hasnt stopped the flow.

Cheers for all your advice - I'll have to buy you a big glass of vino after all this.

Reply from Kevin:

Re: 2.24v fuel leakage:

"Got it all sorted at long last ... after cocking up both injection fuel pipes and banjos ! I am now expert and replacing these parts - and it's incredibly simple once you know how. I can describe how to do it if you want it for your hints and tips?

Anyway - after working out how to move the airbox out of the way I found several Jubilee clips that were very loose, especially the one that connected to the back of the engine.

Next job is to replace the front springs - I bet that isn't a fun job !

Well it was lucky in the end ... when I started the car I had fluid pouring out from under the car - after a minute I realised it was petrol, pouring out of a joint I'd been nowhere near! A 25p Jubilee clip soon sorted that ... the price of Maserati ownership ;-)

The correct way to move the airbox out of the way - and by far the cheapest - is to do the following:

Use the same procedure for replacing the metal petrol pipes that rub to the fuel injector rails.

On the 2.24v, and I believe it is the same on some of the very early series one Ghibli engines too, the airbox tucks down behind the back of the engine covering a load of water pipes and other interesting things.

I originally thought the only way to move it was to bend the petrol pipes that go through the airbox to the fuel injection rails. This had disasterous consequences which led to me having to replace the banjo unions and fuel pipes!

The "proper way" is to:

1. Remove air filter.

2. Remove all plastic hoses attached to airbox.

3. Disconnect the rubber hose that connects to the top of the Weber fuel thing inside the airbox.

4. Undo the 2 bolts that attach the airbox to the back of the engine.

5. Loosen the big nuts that pass through the banjo unions.

The whole lot then just swivels up !

If, like me, you need to replace the banjo unions because you have stripped the thread (due to there not being enough room for a spanner !), then undo the 3 Allen bolts that hold the fuel rail on. You should then have enough room to finish unscrewing the large bolt.

If you need more room then pull the fuel rail up, complete with fuel injectors. Well worth replacing the 2 "O" rings per injector. ( though at £3 per "O" ring a bit pricey when you need 12 !).

Another tip is to replace the 2 short pieces of rubber fuel pipe inside the airbox along with the 4 jubilee clips - nice and cheap and much better than having to hose down the engine when its been sprayed with a gallon of petrol ;-). Thanks again for your help,

Kevin."

Kevin in the UK writes:

Re: 2.24v coolant loss and central locking.

"Hi Enrico,

One problem after another ... and before any other problem is properly fixed of course! I now have 2 further problems that any advice would be welcomed on.

I'm losing coolant, which seems to be dripping off the gearbox bellhousing - and I can't see where its coming from. Any ideas?

Also the central locking is playing silly wotsits. If you lock the car with alarm fob, key or by manually pushing the button down it immediatley unlocks again! Any ideas where I should start the search?

I've had the engine mounts replaced now - that's moved the engine up so it'll be new springs and spacers ... once I've broken into the piggy bank ;-)

Actually managed to get her up in the air today - and i'm even more confused now. Water is steadily dripping, so getting worse, and i still cant see where its coming from. It appears to be dripping off the flywheel (the cover is missing) and then being sprayed around when the engine is running. Surely there isnt a core plug inside the bellhousing ? I've had a route around from the top and cant feel anything damp?

On the security front i've found that if i lock the car from the passenger side it locks fine ... so i guess this points at something wrong inside the drivers door? I can see this becoming expensive!

Thanks for all your help so far.

Cheers,

Kevin."

Reply from Enrico:

Re: 2.24v coolant loss and central locking problem:

"Hi Kevin,

Oh dear, take courage young man!!

Check all your water hoses at the back of the engine, pay particular attention to the 'T' piece on the water cooling for the turbochargers. This can sometimes crack with the heat. If it does need replacing, I strongly recommend you buy a spare.

. I had a similar problem with the alarm on one of my cars. I ignored the problem until I ended up having the door lock remain in the locked position and had to get in and out from the passenger side. Trying to open a locked door from the inside was to say the least 'one hell of a job'.

I would suggest that you check all the door actuators, one of them may have dried up and need lubrication. I would remove the door panels and lubricate the door locks and central locking actuators.

Hope the images help.

Reply from Kevin:

Re: 2.24v coolant loss and central locking problem:

"Hi Kevin,

I believe I've now sorted the coolant leak ... found a connection right at the back onto the engine (on the left hand side as you look from the front) that had a load of blue crusty deposits. Tightened everything in the vicinity up and it all appears to be ok now. Not sure what that connection was for ?

I'll hopefully use her for the next couple of weeks before I replace the front springs - any idea how big a job that is ?

Cheers,

Kevin."

Triantafillos in Greece writes:

Re: 2.24v water temperature.

"Dear Enrico,

First of all hello from the beautiful Greece.

I have a problem with my 2.24v series 2, model year 93, engine type AM475.

I changed the thermostat and the valve on the fans. My temperature reaches 90 and a little above from that. The fans start at 90 degrees. Is it correct?

What is the right type of thermostat and valve? This one I put opens at 71 degrees and the valve at 85.

What the temperature should be? 90 less or more?

The temperature in the panel inside is reliable?

Please answer me soon - if that is possible - because I got afraid and I stopped the car a few days now.

Tell me a lot about temperature because the engine has now been rebuilt and I do not want to destroy it again.

A big thanks for everything you offered me - BIG HELP - anytime I asked you something.

Triantafillos."

Reply from Andrea:

Re: 2.24v water temperature:

"1) Have you fitted a Maserati original thermostat? This is important because it has an extra bypass hole and a flap that covers it, which most aftermarket items wont have.

2) Are you saying that the cooling fans are on all the time? If so then this is clearly wrong. But if on the open road, the fans go off, then probably OK.

3) Also check that your gauge is accurate because some of these cars seem to run at different temperatures to others and it is all down to inaccuracies in the gauge!

Andrea."

Follow-up from Triantafillos:

Re: 2.24v water temperature:

"Andrea, you are great.

First of all, I put the original thermostat in the car, the previous was not.

The car reaches 90 degrees and then the fans start. The temperature goes more than 90, maybe 95 to 100 and the fans start and then temperature falls to 90. Is this OK?

I think I might have to change the valve-sensor that gives the command to the fans to start. What type should be? Of what temperature should be and at what temperature should the fans start?

It is situated down on the fans and it has 2 cables, to be more specific. I think this wiil fix my problem - if there is a problem - and I will own it to you.

Many thanks,

Triantafillos from Greece."

Reply from Enrico:

Re: 2.24v water temperature:

"Hi Triantofillos,

Attached are the relevant pages from the 2.24v Parts Manual.