My 4.24v isn't feeling very well.
Can you help? Please!
 

Any owner having a problem with their Maserati can send me details and I will publish these, together with any subsequent advice I receive, on this page.

Just drop me a line at maserati123@btopenworld.com

 
 

Someone in Sweden writes:

 

"Hi,

I wonder if you have any good performance boosting tips for a 1988 Maserati 422."

 
 
 
 

Andreas from Greece writes:

 

"Hi Enriko!

My MASERATI is 424V (2000cc) model 1993 unleaded fuel.

I have already fitted an K&N air filter, free exhaust and catalyst. The difference in performance I saw was very little.

I took helpful information and I need some more. Can you help me? I need the degrees for tuning up the camshaft. If I change the IHI turbines with GARRETT Number 2, will it be necessary to have the Eprom re-mapped? If yes, where can I find the electronic chip? How the same engine gives 280hp to the MASERATI RACING model?

As well, can you answer to me about Eprom re-mapped? Where can I find person or company to do this? I know that GARRET turbochargers are better than the IHI and I want little biggers to give to my engine more air with the same press (0,7 bar). Do you know the differance between my engine (245hp) and the engine of Racing (280hp)? I am looking the way to take this power (280hp) or little bigger from my engine trustworthily.

I found that the 'Superchips' company has some chips which, as it claims, give 30 bhp more. I would like your opinion on this issue.

Regards,

Andreas."

 
 

Reply from Andreas:-

Re: 4.24v turbos and 'chips'.

"Hi Enrico!

My MASERATI is now 275 bhp and this costed to me 254 euro (EPROM re mapped and turbo pressure 0,95 bar). In few days, I think I can send you fotos and details..

Andreas."

 
 

Reply from Andy:-

Re: 4.24v turbos and Superchip.

"Sorry but don't have this info for a 2.0 litre.

If it is at all possible, please try to dissuade him from changing to different turbos!

Superchips.

Have seen cars that have had them fitted but have not got involved in fitting them ourselves.

Never seen a proper job though. increasing the boost is all very well but many chips do not take into account the fuel and ignition requirements and so lead to engine problems.

However, a small increase in boost can be achieved by drilling out the restrictor in the boost solenoid return pipe. This is a brass fitting and by drilling it out, the point at which the wastegates open and excess boost is vented is delayed. You can completely remove the restrictor but then the wastegates rarely open at all which is bad news. However, by drilling it out, you can achieve a small but useful increase in bhp.

Andy."

 
 
 
 

Ben from The Netherlands writes:

 

"Dear Maserati owners,

I have a 424 from Italy and the car is running great except for 2 problems.

One is that the automatic air conditioning is working properly when the engine is cold, but when the engine is warm, it can take up to one hour before the control panel will switch on and control the heating properly.

Second question is how to clean the fuel tank as it has rust inside?

Thank you for any reply.

Ben."

 
 

Reply from Andy:-

Re: 4.24v.

"If the panel is completely dead for up to an hour, then it sounds like a poor connection. Probably in the fused relay that governs the panel - which should be under the dash above the fuse box area. If the panel is working and it is just that the temperature is erratic, then it is usually due to a faulty heater valve in the cooling system. This is electrically operated and there is no choice but to fit a new one. The fuel tank can be cleaned and is easy to remove. There are various companies, certainly in the UK, who sell a fuel tank sealer for classic cars. You could try this. A new tank is the best option of course, but they are I think around £300! Hope this helps.

Andy."

 
 
 
 

Miguel from Portugal writes:

 

"Dear Andy,

By now my 4.24v. is ready to suffer its first engine intervention, the problem was after all, several damaged piston rings.

I heard that they were made by Moto Guzzi, is that right?

Remember, my car is a 1991 model, probably manufactured in 1990. I know that some engines were made with weak piston rings. Can yopu confirm that?

Can you also, tell me what kind of things I should look for once the engine is out?

What should I replace? The car vhas covered 106,990 km. Never changed the timing belt!! Never done a valve job!! Never replaced the timing chains!! And still I have power. No blue smoke at idle, but smoke on hard acceleration.

Fo course by now I hear some noises. Water pump, valves and chains when cold. Please tell me everything.

It ios a person with formation on the Maserati factory, who is going to do the work. Even so, any help would be highly praised.

Many thanks,

Miguel."

 
 

Reply from Andy:-

Re: 4.24v.

Dear Miguel,

If your piston rings are damaged then do you have damage on the liners also?

I would recommend that you have new pistons and probably liners as well. I do not recall any rumours of weak piston rings on this engine - apart from on very early Biturbo engines of 2.0 litres which had problems with the liners.

Regarding other sensible parts to replace. I would certainly recommend a new pair of timing chains. It will never be as cheap to replace them as it is now! Also for sure, a new belt - are you mad?

With the valves - you should remove all the valves and check them, especially if you have been blowing a lot of oil through the engine as they will have a lot of carbon on them, but hopefully they will just need cleaning and relapping.

If the water pump is now off the car, then spin it and listen for noise, also waggle it to feel for play in the bearing - if there is any noise or any play whatsoever, then you should renew it.

Hope this helps.

Andy."

Enrico adds:

"You might want to consider changing the crankshaft and conrod bearings while the engine is disassembled. You will only incurr the cost of parts as there is very little extra labour involved!

If you buy a complete cylinder head overhaul kit, it will include everything including new valve seals (the set is not cheap)."

 
 
 
 

Miguel from Portugal writes:

 

"Dear Andy,

By now my car has covered 100.000 kms. Remember, I am the guy from Portugal with the 1919 4.24v?

Well, I still have lots of oil in the air filter, probably it is indeed a worn piston ring. My question is:

Is it normal in the 24 valve engine to find worn piston(s) ring(s)?

When hot the idle is correct, there's no smoke of any kind. If I don`t push hard no oil at all, at least not significantly.

I still have the power and "push" from the turbos, the pressure gauge works perfectly. The turbo lack I told you, on our last contact, is gone. Everything is OK now.

The "tlek", "tlek" noise happened because the AMAL valve was full of oil that came from the 2 rubber hoses from the turbos, is this normal?

Anyway, I cleaned it and is everything OK! The reason I still didn`t have the car checked, is because here in Portugal the assistance to this kind of Maseratis is poor, and I hate to pay a lot for no work at all.

Of course, by now I run my car more smoothly!!!

Any ideas? If there's a problem with the pistons rings, what should I see from my car while driving it? Smoke on acceleration? What else?

Best regards,

Miguel."

 
 

Reply from Andy:-

Re: 4.24v.

Dear Miguel,

From what you say, I think you can discount a turbo problem. They almost always produce smoke at idle, although they almost always still boost!

The oil you describe in the inlet side of your engine is definitely wrong. That it has found its way into the AMAL valve suggests that it is really serious. You should be getting some smoke when you accelerate hard. You can check for a piston ring problem by doing the following:

1. Remove the spark plugs and look at the colour. They should be light brown. If one or more is black and oily then that cylinder has a problem.

2. Carry out a cylinder leakage test - not compression test as the oil will make good compression. By putting compressed air in the cylinder when it is on the firing stroke, you can tell where the leakage is. If it is noticeably worse on one or more cylinders then that is where your problems lie.

However, there are two small things that you could check before becoming too depressed:

1. Is the oil level in the engine correct as per Maseratis recommendation? Check and change the oil if necessary so that you are sure. Excess oil in the engine will cause the symptoms you describe.

2. Check that the engine breather is not blocked. Every engine creates some pressure in the crankcase and this needs to be vented somewhere. If the breather is blocked, oil will find its way into the inlet side.

If you cannot find a Maserati agent to help you, then maybe try a racing car specialist as they will have more sympathy with this type of high performance engine.

It is surprising that you have these problems at only 100,000kms as these engines are usually very reliable. However, if it has been overheated in the past or the boost has been increased, then either could cause a premature failure.

Let me know how you get on.

Regards,

Andy."

 
 
 
 

Miguel from Portugal writes:

 

"Dear Sir,

Something happened in my 4.24v engine that I have no way to fine out why. After a long trip pushing hard, as always, I found that my new air filter was covered with oil, a huge amount of oil. The oil level was normal and the oil came from the rubber breather hoses leading to the air filter housing.

I have also noticed that between 3800 and 4200 rpm I do not have the normal boost pressure. In 4th and 5th gears it is 'chaos'.

What could this be? Can anyone help please?

Regards, Miguel."

 
 

Reply from Enrico:-

Re: 4.24v - Oil on the air filter.

"Hi Miguel,

Sorry to hear about your problem. Where are you from? What year is the car? How many kilometres has the car covered?

Was the oil all over the air filter or mainly on one side? This will establish which bank of cylinders is giving trouble.

This could be one of two things:

1. Worn piston rings in one or more cylinders. This can be done by performing a compression test on all the cylinders.

2. You may have an oil leak in one of the turbochargers. This will require having the turbocharger responsible overhauled.

A small amount of oil can happen when the car is driven hard but a huge amount is something different.

Hope this helps,

Enrico.

 

Miguel from Portugal replies:

"Dear Enrico,

Thanks for the reply.

My car is a 1991 model and has now covered 89000 Km. The oil is all over the air filter. It only happens when I'm driving flat out. What kind of things should happen if it is a worn piston ring? Oil in the exhaust pipes, smoke? What else?

I have the performance, I have power and no smoke at all, just when I reach 3800 rpm in 4th or 5th the needle in the turbo boost pressure guage reaches the yellow zone and then starts to fall.

If I lift my foot off the accelerator and then press hard again the turbo boost goes into the yellow zone and then starts to fall. It is 'chaos' until it reaches 4200 rpm and them 'BOOM' power again! The harder I drive the more oil is on the filter. Now the oil level in the engine has started to drop!

A few days ago, I noticed a strange noise coming from the AMAL valve, "TLEK,TLEK,TLEK". If I lift my foot off the accelerator it stops and on some occasions it returns and on other occasions nothing. This happens mainly in 4th and 5th, when in recover. Strange isn't it!

Finally turbo damage. I don't think so. No blue smoke or lack of power.

Is it possible that the cylinder heads need a valve job? For example, when I slow down, some oil comes to the heads and therefore comes out through the breather pipes. Any ideas?

My car is probably the most travelled Maserati in the Iberian Peninsula, around 120 km per day since June 2001.

I love the car and I keep it in pristine condition.

Regards, Miguel."

 
 

Reply from Andy:-

 

4.24v - Oil on the air filter.

This sounds like it could be a mashed piston ring - but there would be smoke on acceleration or most likely a turbo problem - you don't really get much smoke apart from on idle after the motor is hot.

Hope this helps.

Andy.

 
 
 
 

Digi from Germany writes:

 

"Hi Enrico!

I'm from Germany and am looking forward to buying a 1992 4.24v.

Since I stumbled over your great site on the net, I thought I could ask you for advise on what I have to look for whilst buying a 4.24v.

I also have the question, if the 92 model already had a g-kat?

I would be grateful if you could help me!!!

Thanks a lot,

Digi."

 
 

Reply from Andy:-

 

Re: 4.24v.

Hi,

Check out the answer given to JP of Sweden in reply to his question on the 425.

Unfortunately, the 425 and 4.24v are really two completely different cars. You have to consider a 4.24v as really a 430 with a 4 valve engine. Therefore the engine stuff to look out for includes things like the timing chains that need changing every 48,000 miles (engine out job). The engine is of course fuel injected as well, unlike the 425 and so check for problems with sensors etc. As a 4.24v, it will be the two litre version (the UK version being 430 4v. If if is an early car then it will look like a 430SE, if it is a late one, it will have the little lights and body coloured front grille like a Racing. Also early cars will be on 15inch wheels same as a 430, whereas late ones will be on 16inch Shamal type wheels.

The basic caveats about body and electrics will be the same as the 425. Running gear will be different though as an early car will have the ZF dog leg gearbox while a late one will have the 5speed Getrag. The steering and suspension will be similar to 430 but again, a late car may have the electronic suspension with the associated high cost of replacement shock absorbers.

As a later car, it will be of better build quality than a 425 and a much better performer. The running costs will be higher, but it is a much better car.

Hope this helps (I can do more in depth if you want).

Regards,

Andy.

 
 
 
 

Lars from Denmark writes:

 

"Hi,

On your site at page http://www.maseratighibli.co.uk/home14.htm, Peter is proudly showing his red Maserati 222. I see he has aftermarket wheels which look very good.

Can you help about aftermarket wheels - or maybe ask Peter, or give me his e-mail address so I can come in contact with him?

I have a Maserati 4.24V myself, but the wheels need to be changed, and I don't know what to use instead of the genuine Maserati wheels - which are far to expensive - and only 16".

Does anyone know what make of aftermarket wheels I can fit to my car(5 bolt pattern)? Hope you can help,

Regards from Denmark,

Lars."

 
 

Reply from Peter:-

 

Re: Aftermarket wheels.

Hello Enrico,

I hope you have had a Happy New Year.

I am well and am very busy.

The wheels on my Maserati are "Work Rezax", which are made in Japan. They are 7½" x 16" on the front and 8" x 16" and on the rear.

The quality of workmanship is perfect! The wheels are sold by a company in Switzerland as Procar www.procar.ch.

I can recommend these rims at any time to you, because that is a genuine increase in value for the auto.

I hope to have helped you, and greet you friendly,

Peter.

 
 
 
 

Micha from The Netherlands writes:

 

"Hello,
My name is Micha and I live in Holland. I want to buy my first Maserati, it is a 1993 Maserati 4.24v. with 103,000 km's on the clock. Can you give me some purchase advise before I buy it?
Thank you for your time,
Micha."

 

Reply from Andy Heywood:-

 

The 4.24v. is a car not marketed in the UK but is essentially the same as the 430 4v but with a two litre rather than a 2.8 litre engine.
This car has a very advanced specification as it has the 4 valve engine - very reliable but must have it's timing chains changed every 80,000 kms. This means taking the engine out. You should check in the service history to see if this has been done as it makes the service very expensive. Otherwise, make the usual checks for blue smoke at idle which indicates worn turbos, check that the engine has no oil leaks and that the water pump is quiet.
The suspension of this car may have the active ride shock absorbers. These need to be tested in all positions and if the red warning light comes on in the key pad during the test, then it means that one or more of the shocks are faulty. This is important as they are expensive to replace.
Otherwise, carry out a full inspection under the car for rust, especially the sills (which are covered by skirts), the jacking points, the inner wings by the front suspension and the bulkhead area near the fusebox.
Inside the car, check that everything works, including the air conditioning as what may seem like minor items can be expensive to repair.
On a road test, check that the boost gauge moves to the orange sector - less indicates a seized wastegate on the turbos, more indicates that it has been modified, which is not good for the long term health of the engine. Listen for noise from the gearbox (some noise at idle is normal), listen for noise from the differential and if present, flick the car from side to side to see if the noise goes away - If it does then it could be a rear wheel bearing. Because the 4 valve engine produces more power than the earlier cars and still uses their axle and rear suspension, it can wear out the differential prematurely.
Check the condition of the wheels as they are quite fragile and can get bent (expensive to replace). Look also at the angle of the rear wheels from behind the car. They should both display some negative camber. If they look different then the car may have been slid into a kerb and a new rear suspension arm may be needed. Check also the condition of the headlights as they are expensive to replace on these cars.
Above all, check for a full service history which substantiates the mileage and also find out who serviced the car. There are only a few good people in The Netherlands that I know of - Karol Krieger and Franco Auto. If it has been looked after by them then it should be good!

 
 
 
 

Shane in Portugal wrote:

 

Wants a little advice about his newly acquired 4.24v. It seems that he needs to replace the alternator...from what he hears, a quite common problem. It is not charging the battery as much as it should, yet it charges enough to start every morning. The problem however is this: When he accelerates hard and reaches about 4000-4500 revs (180kmph), the battery light begins to flash on and off. Does this have anything to do with the alternator, or does the problem lay elsewhere?
If you can advise Shane please let me know!

 
 
 
 



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