My Ghibli isn't feeling very well.
Can you help? Please!

Any owner having a problem with their Maserati can send me details and I will publish these, together with any subsequent advice I receive, on this page.

Just drop me a line at


Even if I don't succeed in helping you with your problems; and I do try, it would help other Maserati owners a great deal if you could let me know how you managed to solve your problems. THANK YOU!


Gilbert in France writes:


"I own a Ghibli 4,7L ( year 1968) and I have two questions, regarding the clutch:

1) It has a double disc clutch. These discs are separated by a plate wich must have a free play. As I am replacing this clutch, I would like to know the value of this free play.

2) How could I adjust the free play of the pedal, as the spring in the clutch emitter pushes the clutch release bearing ?

Somebody can help me ?

Thanks a lot."."


Reply from Andrea in the UK:-


Re: Ghibli double disc clutch

"The double disc clutch is very rare and only fitted on early Ghibli. There needs to be ‘a small amount’ of free play but there will be no actual measurement for this. The crucial thing is to provide enough free play that the clutch will clear when hot. This is adjustable under the car on the rod from the clutch slave cylinder and is the only adjustment The pedal itself is not adjustable. It has a spring fitted to it which ‘helps’ the action of the pedal only. There shouldn’t be a spring holding the clutch fork onto the clutch release bearing." "


Elliot in the USA writes:


"I read a posting on this site about wire wheels.

I own a 72 Ghibli SS #AM115 4.9 2370. It is being restored and will be completed Winter 06-07. I live in New York City and I drive my car about 4000-5000 miles a year (12 months a year but not in the winter with water on the ground because salt is used to melt the snow here.)

My car came with 4 bolt Borrani wheels. They are servicable.

I was quoted $500 per wheel to rebuild and rechrome. I instead chose to buy a set of new Dayton bolt on wires. They have chrome rims and stainless spokes. I drive the car and the people at Dayton say chroming weakens the wires and I think the chrome wires are not guaranteed.

I purchased these wheels about 2 years ago and drove the car with them, no problems. I did purchase 16 inch diameter wheels that are 1/2 inch wider in the rear and I think the fronts are also wider.

The cost of these four wheels non-chrome today is probably less than $1800. I think these wheels look much better. They have a much more open look due to the extra diameter and because the center hub is about 2 inches less in diameter.

The Borranis have a "Bolt circle" the same as mine but the Borranis have an additional one inch wide piece of metal around the bolt circle, probably for strenght. I notice no difference in ride and handling and I have 60 series contemporary tires fitted.

My car has a few minor updates for looks and drivability. I had a bare metal restoration done and it was quite rusty. I had both the ugly front and rear side marker lights removed. Under the hood I had an MSD electronic ignition to replace the original Maserati CD ignition and the plugs have not yet fouled even in city traffic.

I cannot compare this to the original ignition because the original did not work when I purchased the car. The MSD only cost about $500 installed. I also had the underhood accessories updated. I had a Japanese alternator put in as well as a rotary air conditioner compressor.

And the greatest improvement, I now have a belt driven water pump on the car!!!!!

My car is taken care of by Vantage Motors in Stamford, Connecticut.

If anyone wants additional details or possibly photos I will be happy to obtain them.



Richard in the UK writes:



I'm not sure where this request should go on your web site.

I am trying to find a power steering set up for the 115 Ghibli. This is the same as fitted to the 116 Indy, 112 Mexico and 107 QP. I need the complete package - steering box, pump with pulleys, fliud cooling radiator and reservoir. The Ghibli also had an alternator bracket for the revised alternator position (dry sump engine).

Can you please post this request to see if anybody out there has a power steering set up for any of the aforementioned cars they wish to sell.

Many thanks,



Richard in Finland writes:



I have been trying to get geometry dimensions for my 1969 Ghibli. The sills on my car are non existant and the body has 'dropped' at the back. Before I replace the sills I need to jack up the back end to realign the body.

I have tried Campana and they have kindly provided me with a contact at the factory but unfortunatley his fax is disabled and the phone line has an answerphone. It is possible that the gentleman is on holiday or away on business and I will keep trying but I would like to move forward as quickly as possible.

Do you or does anybody have the critical vertical dimensions of the front suspension bush mounting, gearbox bracket mounting on the chassis and the front and rear shackle points for the rear spring (taken up from a level plane). So far I have jacked up the rear end by 55mm and it looks right with the doors hung but I need to be sure.




Reply from Pepe in Finland:-


Re: Ghibli measurements

"To Richard in Finland, if you are in Finland you are wellcome to check my Ghibli measurements by calling me at +358-400-609021

Rgds, Pepe."


Pierre in France writes:



Would you please tell me where it's possible to find this (cable pour pompe à eau) for my Indy and for a friend for his Ghibli SS?

"Confronté à un problème permanente avec le câble de la pompe à eau de ma Ghibli, j'ai fabriquer une pièce de substitution, d'ailleurs atisable sur beaucoup d'autres V8 Maserati.

La rupture de ce câble se produisait souvent, malgré un alignment aparemment bon du compresseur d'air conditionné.

J'ai fait fabriquer un lot de cette pièce que j'ai baptisée "The Cable Solution", et je souhaite les vendre pour couvrir les frais de fabrication. La notice ci-jointe en résume les caractéristiques, que j'ai également publiées dans le magazine trimestriel du "Maserati Owners Club of North America", dont je suis l'editeur.

Je vous demande de bien vouloir inclure cette information dans votre magazine, en indiquant à vos membres de me joindre à l'adresse figurant cidessus. Tenbul Enterprises, P.O.Box 41663 Los Angeles CA 90041 USA. THANKS A LOT.


Chris in the UK writes:


"Dear Enrico,

I need some new rear shock absorbers for my 1971 Ghibli SS. The original Koni R82 is no longer made. Can anyone recommend an alternative?

Many thanks,



Pepe in Finland writes:



Has anybody fitted Goodyear Eagle RS-A 225/70VR-15 tires on Ghibli SS model.

Comments please? Pepe."


Paul in Germany writes:



I’m currently restoring a 1969 Ghibli and I’m trying to find out the original finish/colour of the upper chassis rails (the ones the fuse box & hydraulic reservoirs are attached to) . When I started dismantling the shell they were a black satin lumpy under seal finish but when I removed this I found the original body colour underneath. Does anyone know if they were finished in the factory in body colour or satin/flat black ?




Reply from Andrea:-


Re: Ghibli factory finish

"The satin black lumpy underseal finish is absolutely correct.



Richard in the UK writes:



I am rebuilding my 1969 Ghibli engine. There is an oil seal at the back of the crankshaft which lies between the crank and the steel flange which sits in the cluch housing when assembled. The crank looks as if it is machined out of a single billet of steel and there are no obvious signs of the flange having been pressed on. Do you know how to get the oil seal off for replacement. I have asked Andy Heywood but it is possible he is on holiday at the moment. I would like to proceed as quickly as possible and wondered if you had any information that might be of use.




Reply from Andrea:-


Re: Ghibli oil seal

"The rear seal on early Ghibli (and in fact QP1, all straight six) is a split seal. The only way to get it on and off the crankshaft is to undo the spring in the back of the seal (which has a clasp) and then there should be an obvious split in the seal so that it can be removed. This means that you have to take the crankshaft out of the engine to change the seal, which means on any of these cars, the engine has to be removed first.



Chris in the UK writes:


"Dear Henry,

Do any owners/enthusiasts out there know how the air conditioning on my 1971 Ghibli should work?

I have just replaced the water pump seal and impeller drive shaft - thanks to some help from Bill McGrath Maserati - and put it all back together successfully. The next job was to reinvigorate the air-con which has never worked since I bought the car six years ago. Together with the local mobile air-con chap I tried to get it going...

First there was no live feed to the compressor. So we tried a temporary feed from the battery - two clicks then a whiney noise but no activity on his gas gauge. Thinking that perhaps the compressor had seized I took it off the car. I bench tested the electro-magnetic plates - working fine and undid the compressor - everything oiled and looking like brand new.

I've no idea what switches/controls work the air-con, but do remember seeing one member's car at Silverstone years ago with what looked like a complicated list of instructions on a piece of card on the centre console.

Can anyone please point me in the right direction? I have a deadline to meet - my honeymoon to Italy in June. Brings me out in a sweat just thinking about it...

Yours sincerely,



Reply from Andy:-


Re: Ghibli A/C.

"1. There is a low pressure cut out switch mounted on the side of the drier unit (front inner wing). This will cut electrical supply to the compressor if there is no gas in the system. You need to gas first.

2. The A/C system on that car was designed for R12 gas which is now obsolete/illegal. The new gas is called R134A and to use this requires draining the compressor, fitting new seals and different oil. Have you done this? If not, there is a fall back position which is to use R413 interim gas. It requires a higher pressure but is otherwise a direct replacement for R12. It is unlikely that this conversion has previously taken place if the system has not been used for six years.

3. If you have established that the compressor clutch works OK and the system is gassed, that the low pressure switch is in good order and that the filter drier is new and it still won’t work, look at the expansion valve. This is under the dash to the side of the heater box and has a venturi in it that can get blocked over the years. It can be cleaned out or in severe cases replaced.

4. If none of that works, investigate the switch – i.e. the dashboard mounted one which is also the thermostat. Make sure that it is working.

5. All of the above is I have to say basic stuff for a good quality mobile A/C specialist.



Chris in the UK writes:


"Dear Sir,

I wonder if any fellow members have any advice on tyres for my 1971 Ghibli SS? It currently has a set of Pirelli Cinturato 225/70VR15. These look right and being Italian seem entirely appropriate. Unfortunately they will soon need replacing and I can't find a new set.

Alternatives in the same size are available from Michelin and Avon, but I recall seeing Ghiblis at Club events wearing Pirelli P4000s. I've tried to trace these in the 225/70VR15 size with no luck. Perhaps someone who has experience of these could advise me?

Best regards,



Reply from Andy:-


Re: Ghibli tyres.

"The Pirelli Cinturato CN36 tyre has been unavailable for a very long time and therefore the only options are as you say. The best (and most authentic) is the Michelin XWX which is available in 225/70VR15 but it is expensive as made in small numbers. Next best thing to do is to fit Pirelli P4000 which I thought was available in 225 but if not, you can fit 215 which is the size most Ghiblis used anyway (225 was a late option). Would not recommend Avons for a 'performance' car.



Emmanuel writes:


"I have a question regarding my 1971 Ghibli SS. I would like to convert it to knock-off Borrani wire wheels, some early models came with them! I am looking to find out any info regarding this.

Also the brakes, I understand the rear calipers are late model E-type, what about the front calipers and the disks where are there from or are they proprietary?

Any info will be appreciated. Again, great site!




Reply from Mark-Anthony:-


Re: Borrani wire wheels.

"In reply to the gentleman who is seeking to put wires onto his SS.

The Ghibli comes with two different wheel types. One, the early type is whet is called centre splined. These take knock-on wheels. The second, later type, are not centre splined but have four centre bolts. These CANNOT be converted to knock-on wheels. It is impossible without massive mechanical surgery.

If the SS is a 4 bolt car (it probably is) they were also fitted with wire wheels but they were not knock-on. They look exactly the same though. They achieve this by having a large centre nut which, once removed, reveals four nuts. On the early cars (like mine - which has alloys - thank god) the centre nut is real and it holds the wheel on. Remove the nut and the wheel falls off!

Ghiblis were never fitted with lobed spinners, the Borranis only came with a central nut, which either held the wheel on or hid four smaller nuts which held the wheel on.

Borrani still supply the wire wheels (either four bolt or centre splined) but make sure that you're sitting down when the price is quoted!

To see tyhis sytem, both types, buy a copy (originals are unobtainable) of the parts catalogue where it shows the two systems in exploded diagrams

. As to the calipers they are all Jag though I have no idea which model.

I hope this helps.



A gentleman writes:



I own an Ghibli Coupé, and I am thinking of converting in into a Spyder.

I know this maybe sounds a bit frightening, but I can do all the work on the chassis and the body myself.

Do you know what the structural differences between the Coupé and the Spyder are?

There are quit a lot of these cars around which have been converted from Coupé to Spyder with some kind of kit.

Maybe there is someone who can help me to obtain the information I am looking for.



Reply from an enthusiast:-


Re: Ghibli Spyder conversion.


In answer to the question on the Ghibli Spyder conversion:

A surprisingly large number of Ghibli Coupés have been converted to Spyder over the years and they fall into three main categories.

1. Campana of Modena offered the conversion in the eighties.

2. A company in the United States (can't quite remember the name but something like JR Enterprises - could look it up if you need to know) offered a kit of parts to carry out the conversion again in the eighties.

3. A coachbuilder from London called Eddie Noone converted a number of cars also.

The basic difference in structure between the Coupé and Spyder was the rear bulkhead, immediately behind the two seats. In the Spyder it is much higher to give some extra rigidity. In reality, it didn't work as the Spyders suffer horrendous scuttle shake and with a car jacked up on the rear jacking points, you can bend it in the middle by leaning on the rear bumper. This is original, but the Eddie Noone cars featured an extra chassis strengthener which ran along the sills to try to improve matters (which it did to some extent). Of course, all the rear panels are different, as are the door frames, the side glass and the fuel tanks.

It is quite a job to do the conversion!

Good Luck!!!


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