My Indy isn't feeling very well.
Can you help? Please!

Any owner having a problem with their Maserati can send me details and I will publish these, together with any subsequent advice I receive, on this page.

Just drop me a line at


Even if I don't succeed in helping you with your problems; and I do try, it would help other Maserati owners a great deal if you could let me know how you managed to solve your problems. THANK YOU!


Håvard in Norway writes:


"Dear Sir!

I have spent my first summer with my 1971 Indy. And its just great!

Last weekend my Italian friend Marco visited me and we were talking about how the car would look with Borrani wire wheels. This is possible not ethical correct, but, who cares if the car can look even better !!!!!!!!!!

Can anyone help me find the correct wheels???

Best regards,



Ben in the UK writes:



Had a bad weekend! – Whilst driving to the Goodwood Festival of Speed I fell foul of a level crossing, which has cracked the sump on my Indy!

Do you know what the sequence/procedure is for removing the engine as I understand (and from taking a look underneath) that the engine needs to come out to replace/repair the sump – for example will I need to take the engine out still attached to the gear box or should they be separated?

Are there any known pitfalls that I should look out for along the way?

I look forward to hearing from you.



Havard in Norway writes:


"Dear Sir!

I ran into a wee problem today. I got this beautiful car from Hamburg last week. When I should show my car to the authorities to get number plates

. They only asked for chassis number. I don't have the instruction book, so, shame on me, I couldn't find the chassis number on the car.

I just had to leave without number plates. So please can you tell me where to find it?

Best regards,



Reply from Andrew:


Re: Indy chassis number.


The chasis number on the Indy is stamped on the rear of the engine and also on the from right hand side {drivers seat side in a LH drive car} Chassis leg. Behind the spring mounting. It's probably covered in muck. It's above the engine mounting on a chassis leg that sticks out. If you look down under the power steering reservoir bottle it should be visible.

The car should have a red VIN plate attatched and quite visible when you lift the bonnet on the RH side of the car.

Hope that helps a little,

Cheers Andrew."


Reply from Andrea:


Re: Indy chassis number.

"The chassis number should be stamped on the front suspension cross member, somewhere near the mounting for the top wishbone on one side (could be either side!). The engine number will be stamped on either the chain case at the front on an early car, or the top of the bell housing on a later car. The numbers should match. There should also be a chassis plate screwed to the inner wing area under the bonnet.



Reply from Enrico:


Re: Indy driver's manual.

"Hi Again,

The Indy Owner's Manual is available in .pdf format and can be downloaded free from the official Maserati website at

Click on International and then English.

Click on Maserati Owners. You will then need to register as a Maserati owner.

Once you have registered, you will be able to enter Heritage services.

Click on Historic services. Then Car Manuals on the bottom right.

Scroll down to Indy, and click on ENTER.

Simply download the manual.

All the best,



Jules in Luxembourg writes:


"Hi Enrico,

I finally bought a 4900 Indy from 1973. Engine runs ok. Just a few small questions:

Is it possible to run tubeless tyres on this 15" wheels ?

My tyre supplier did't want to mount the P4000's without tubes.

Several lines of the AC compressor are disconnected, and there is no more fluid in.

Could the system be refilled with newer gas or has it to be dismanteled in order to upgrade for modern gas use ?

Last question: the switch to open the eyelids (front lights) and the parking lights is it just working on/off or is there a position to be held down in order to open the eyelids ?

My electrical motor didn't work and the lights had been blocked in open position (urgent solution decided when bought). Also the switch seems to be a little "lazy".

Many thanks,



Dennis in the USA writes:


"Your site is a wonderful resource for Maserati owners and I have enjoyed reading the comments from you and other owners. The Indy is a wonderful car.

I suspect the fuel line that leads from the fuel valve block (where the lines from the two electric pumps converge) to the engine compartment leaks. The fuel drips from the rocker panel in 2 locations:

1.Immediately in front of the right rear tire.

2.Immediately behind the right front tire.

Thus far, I have been unable to find a way to access the line for inspection purposes to confirm that a leak exists and to determine if something needs to be replaced. The following measures have been taken and have been unproductive:

1. The panel that covers the right rear fuel tank has been removed and no fuel has leaked or is present in this area.

2. Removal of the right rear seat does not allow access to the fuel line between the fuel valve block (where the lines from the two pumps converge) and the engine.

Any advice as to what to remove next will be appreciated.



Matthias in Germany writes:


"Hello Enrico,

I enjoy your web site very much and I look every week for some news about Maserati.

4 mounth ago I bought a Indy 4.2 in good condition but now I have some Question about the ignition.

The Indy have 2 Mech. contact breaker and a ignition box in front of the car from Bosch (HKZ ).

Is this the originaly equipment? The coil is also from Bosch but I’am not sure if it the correct one, it looks like a normal battery ignition coil.

How to identify the correct one ? At last I am confuse about the ignition advance. In the maintenaince manual I read 10 to 12° static and 13° automatic advance by the distributor other information is 4° static ignition. What is right and how to check ?

A lot of question but I hope You can help me.

Best regards,



Reply from Andrea:


Re: Indy timing.

"The ignition system you describe is the original. The static timing is indeed 10 to 12 degrees and no, there are no marks on the flywheel. The best way to check is to use a dial test indicator in No1 cylinder (the cylinder nearest the distributor) through the spark plug hole and set the timing to 0.9mm before Top Dead Centre – which is the equivalent. One other tip is that because the ignition system is transistorized and the points are only used for a trigger, you should not have the condenser connected (even though it is present). Maserati left it in for the event of a failure of the transistor box, so that the system could be run on standard ignition as a back up!



Patrik in Sweden writes:



Having a 4.24V-1993, that I'm selling, I have now bought a nice early Indy 4200.

I'm looking for a owner's manual to the AM116, with the early layout.

Also wonder how to work the compressor horn (if it works). The normal horn works (beep-beep) But, it is not the type of horn you want to use.

Anyway, also, how to change the light bulbs in the main lights. Right now I just have high beam on 1 light, not 2 (of the four). Could also be a relay problem?

Car is fitted with a/c. The compressor seem to work, but no cooling effect. It's the old type of R12.

Also trying to pinpoint the color. Supect the "Oro Bronzata" but I'm not sure. It's a orange, brown red type of metallic.

Also, the car has been standing in a museum for 17 years. It's now serviced for 2500GPB, to be in running condition, and also cleared the Swedish MOT. But the tyres are Pirelli P6 from 1988, 205-14.

They look good, but are old. Should I discard them?

The car is without servo-assisted steering, a bit heavy to manoeuver standstill, but when you are rolling just a little it's OK. I dont think wider tyres is such a good idea.


From Patrik."


Reply from Andrea:


Re: Indy in Sweden.

"Horn: Might have a horn changeover switch (black rocker with picture on it).

Headlamp bulbs. Straightforward – if one is working not a relay fault. Put the pods up and release the covers, take whole unit out and change bulb. Should be standard types.

If there is no gas, the compressor should not work (there should be a low pressure cut out switch fitted) and if it does it will be damaged. If you can get R413 gas, you can use that as a direct replacement for R12 and you will need to charge the system with this to find out what is going on before going any further.

Colour codes are difficult to match up. The information on this website is as good as it gets.

The tyres should definitely be changed if they are that old. I would recommend either Pirelli P4000 as a budget tyre or Michelin XWX if you want the best. DO NOT go for low profile as it destroys the ride and makes the car too low.




Patrick in Belgium writes:


"Hello Enrico,

I look for the electrical plans of the Maserati Indy.

Do you now a person with an Indy, I have some questions for my restoration.

Very good site ... I have already a Bora, Ghibli and an Indy.

I look for a 3500GT.

Do you Know where I can find parts for my Indy?




Reply from Enrico:


Re: Indy electrical diagrams.

"Hi Patrick,

I have tried on more than one occasion to send you a .pdf file of the Indy Owner's Manual. Unfortunately as the file was in excess of 15MB your service provider refused it.

I have now attached the relevant pages from the manual that illustrate the wiring system.

Hope this helps,



Jules in Luxemburg writes:


"Hi Enrico,

Congratulations for your superb web-site.

I'm planning to buy a Maserati Indy 4.7-litre or even better a 4.9-litre.

Can anyone tell me what are the critical points to watch out before buying?

Are there any specially weak points, engine, body, breaks?

Thank you for every information,



Reply from Andy:


"Re: Indy and what to look out for.

"Specific to the Indy and in addition to carrying out a normal thorough inspection of the car, you should pay attention to the following points:

1 - Check oil pressure on external gauge. Do not believe car’s own gauge.

2 - Check that engine is correct size and that number matches chassis number.

3 - Check that the subframe mountings to the front inner wings are not corroded.

4 - Check for cylinder head gasket leaks using a block tester.




Neil in Poland writes:


"You’ve got an interesting web site, well done.

I’ve just bought an ’86 Quattroporte III and a ’72 Indy. The problem is the Indy drove onto the trailer but wouldn’t start in order to get off.

What are the main problems with these engines? Does anyone have a spare workshop manual they want to sell.

I’ve just got my Jag XJ12 S3 going so nothing can be worse than that.

Thanks in advance.



Reply from Andy:


"Re- Indy engine.

There are a million reasons why it won’t start and I haven’t got a crystal ball. Give me a bit more to go on and I’ll try to help.

There is no workshop manual as such for these cars. The driver’s manual is all you can get (as repro from sources like the Maserati Club) but it does have a lot of technical info.




Wim from ? writes:


"Hello Henry,

First of all what a wonderful website you have. Truly great!

Can you help me in finding information on how to check the timing chains on an early type (4.2) Indy?

Any information is welcome,

Kind regards,



Reply from Andy:


"Checking the timing chains is covered in great detail in the drivers manual.



Reply from Enrico:


"I have attached some info from the driver's manual.

You can buy a digital photocopy of the manual from the Maserati Club here in the UK?

Check out Regards,


Christian from the Netherlands writes:


"Hi Henry,

How are you?

We have got some questions about the front suspension for Andy.

My brother has got two Indys one for spares and one in a good condition. The one in good condition is standing lower in the front than the spare Indy.

What can be the course, can we exchange the springs, and replace the rubbers? As far as we can see, the sub frame is still intact.

What is the best working sequence?

Could you give us the price for new suspension rubbers?

Friendly greetings,



Reply from Andy:


"Working on the front suspension is not particularly difficult. You should change suspension items rather than attempt to change over the subframes as this is major work!!!!!

Once you have removed the brakes and hubs, you will have to make some threaded rods to screw into the bottom of the spring pans to lower the spring pan in relation to the wishbone as normal spring compressors are difficult to fit into the space available.

Once you have removed the pan and spring, split the ball joints and check the lower joint especially for wear. Now check the wishbone bushes. The top ones are easy to change and should be done as a matter of course. The lower ones are much more difficult as there is a steel rod which carries them and must be removed forwards to get the lower wishbone off. There is a small grub screw in the chassis between the arms of the wishbone that must first be removed and then the rod pulled out. This is sometimes very difficult and requires heat to shift it.

All the parts (including new rods) are available at very reasonable prices from specialists such as Bill McGrath Maserati (Tel: 0044 1438 832161).

Hope this helps,



Reiss from the UK writes:


"Hi there,

I am a frequent visitor to your site, and must congratulate you on the quality of the content.

I am keen to purchase an Indy - if I can find one that has been well maintained.

If you know of someone who has such a car for sale I would be most interested to hear from you.

I am not after a concourse/trailer queen, but simply a well cared for car with a wad of receipts to support the work carried out & complete documentation, etc suitable for regular use.

I.e not a dog, and I really want a RHD 4.7 if possible.

Many thanks,



Mark from Holland writes:


"Hello Enrico!

I have recently put together a wiring loom for the rear of my Tipo 116 Indy (see attached image). I am now in a position to offer similar looms to any owner of a Maserati Indy. All the wires are in black, but the connectors are numbered and a key will be added to explain the function of each wire and connector.

Extra wiring for the American side lights can be added if desired.

I think 250 euro is a reasonable price (considering the cost of materials and the many hours spent building it).

Greetings Mark.

If anyone is interested in one of Mark's loom he can be reached at:

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