Can you help? Please!

My Merak isn't feeling very well.
Can you help? Please!

Any owner having a problem with their Maserati can send me details and I will publish these, together with any subsequent advice I receive, on this page.

Just drop me a line at maserati123@btopenworld.com

Fedor from the USA writes:

"Hello Enrico,

I am interested in purchasing a Maserati Merak and was wondering about some of the differences between the models years.

The earlier models all seem to have Citroën dashboards and Citroën brakes whilst the later models have the Bora dash and Maserati brakes.

The later model Meraks also seem to have a front end reminiscent of a Ferrari 308 (with the big black bumper) while the earlier Meraks have a front end similar to the Bora.

My question is, what year and model if any, did the Maserati Merak come with the Bora stye front end, Bora style dash and Maserati brakes?

Thanks,

Fedor."

Reply from Andy:-

Re: Meraks:

"We're obviously talking US spec cars here.

Basically, up to around '76, cars entering the US had the same Citroen brakes and hydraulics as the Euro spec cars. After that they changed to normal Girling hydraulics.

They also changed to the black bumpers around this time, before they were stainless steel like the Euro cars.

The sheet metal however, did not really change so all cars had the same front end (same as Bora) apart from an extra grille in the bonnet later on.

US cars also had catalyst exhausts and different rear chassis to allow for the impact bumper internals, meaning that the exhaust system moved down into the rear valance.

Dashboards I think changed from Citroen to Bora at the same time as the hydraulics, i.e. 1976.

Sorry to be so vague but we see very few US cars here in England. Your best bet would be to join one of the American Maserati clubs, MCI or TMC.

Hope this helps,

Andy."

John from the UK writes:

"Hi Enrico,

I wonder if you could answer this question for me? My 1980 Merak SS has the chassis no AM122. A. 575. This can be seen adjacent to the o/s headlamp aperture. In my V.5 registration document the engine number is recorded as being the same as the chassis. When I look at the engine I can see a a series of numbers near to the opening in the bellhousing for the ignition timing, these numbers are 114-53-30 / 520-364 in two lines.

Is this the engine number? And, if it is, what does it mean as it is totally different to the number in my V5?

All the best,

John."

Reply from Andy:-

Re: Merak engine numbers:

"John: Merak Chassis numbers are all AM122 with the 'A' afterwards signifying SS. Then a three digit odd number for a RHD car. Unlike most of the other Maserati road cars, the engine number does NOT match the chassis number and the number given below IS the engine number.

I am not completely sure of what all the figures mean but 114 is the generic number for the V6 engine. 53 is an SS and 30 is a three litre, 520 is an SS and '364' is the actual engine number.

This is what should be on the V5 but it is no surprise that it is not!

Hope this helps,

Andy."

Mikel from the star constellation ' writes:

"Love your website! It is one of the most well put togther Maserati sites!

I have a question about the Maserati Merak. The Merak Is one of my favorite Maseratis, but the engine that is in it is no real gem or firecracker. To some this may sound like a sacrilegious question or idea, but would you happen you know which Maserati engines would fit into a Merak engine bay? Be it a Biturbo or Ghibli twin turbo V6 or the Shamal's V8 etc?

Or if you know someone who would know or has done it, please contact me.

Thank You,

Mikel."

Reply from Andy:-

Re: Merak engine conversion:

I have always thought that it would be an interesting project to fit a Biturbo engine to a Merak but I don't know anyone who has attempted such a project.

Some points to think about:

1. Which gearbox to use - the Citroen gearbox on the Merak is not really able to handle much more power so must be changed.

2. The ZF gearbox from the Bora could be used but is very expensive to buy (and only second-hand) and difficult to find parts for.

3. You could use the transaxle from a Renault - which a lot of specialist car builders use.

4. A V8 engine will be too long to fit in the engine bay.

5. A Biturbo engine will fit very easily!

6. If fitting a Biturbo engine, then you would have to move the original fuel tanks for the Merak as they will be directly on top of the turbos!

7. If you moved the fuel tanks to the front of the car, then you could use the Merak fuel tank bins as space to fit intercoolers and all the turbo plumbing.

8. You could use a 2.8 litre 3 valve Biturbo unit with larger intercoolers, a little extra boost and get around 280bhp reliably.

9. Although there are plenty of these engines around at low prices, the overall cost of the conversion would still be considerable and your Merak would be worth less than a standard car - and have no boot space!

10. Fun though.....

Regards,

Andy."

John in the UK writes:

"Hi Enrico,

Another question for Andy. My Merak pulls in exhaust fumes into the cab under certain conditions. Needless to say this is very unpleasant, not to say potentially dangerous. I think that the fumes must be entering through the tunnel. My question is this, should there be some kind of baffle in the tunnel to stop the entry of fumes? In my car there is nothing to stop this happening.

If there should be a baffle, what form does it take? I think that I'm going to have to make something, but it would be nice to have an idea of what the original was like.

All the best,

John."

"Hi Enrico,

Hello Enrico, Thanks for your prompt reply. The fumes are very definitely burnt exhaust gasses, they seem to be drawn in when the car is on the overrun. It must occur through some quirk of aerodynamics. However it can be very unpleasant, so bad sometimes that it makes my eyes sting! The reason for my thinking that there may be some kind of baffle in the tunnel is the fact that the tunnel is open to the engine bay, from one end to the other. With a more conventional car the same thing applies, but the tunnel is open to the underside of the car, and any apertures such as the gear lever and handbrake openings are sealed with gaiters. The Merak however is different, the tunnel being an enclosed box, except for the rear which is open to the engine bay, and there are various openings in it which are only covered by the tunnel cover. This is not sealed in any way, being only a trim panel. Well that's about it, sorry to go on at such length.

All the best,

John."

Reply from Andy:-

Re: Merak fumigation!

There are a number of issues here.

Regarding the tunnel. To the rear of the car, it is open into the engine bay. To the front, it is open to the area under the front luggage compartment, but apart from an inspection plate and the gearlever surround, it is not open into the cabin. Both of these holes are pretty efficiently sealed from new as well, so unless you have a problem with the sealing, it is unlikely that fumes will come in this way. There is no baffle. However, there should be no fumes of note in the engine bay anyway as the exhaust should send everything out of the back of the car. Have you got an exhaust leak? Also, is it worse when the windows are open? If so, it could be that you have a hole somewhere either in the rear wheel arch area or the floor, or the fuel tank bin and basically the fumes are dragged in through the open windows from the back of the car - or through the hole - not sure which but you need intake and exit holes - strange but true.

Andy."

John in the UK writes:

"Hi,

I wonder if you would be good enough to put some questions to Andy. I have a 1980 Merak SS and I would like to know how to check the ignition timing. I have a driver's manual but it only covers the twin points set up. My car has electronic ignition and doesn't seem to be the same as the example in the driver's manual.

Which is the number 1 cylinder?

The electrodes around the distributor cap are not spaced equidistantly as you would expect to find on a normal car. Could Andy explain why this is?

I am assuming that it is something to do with the angle of the crankpins. Also could he explain the firing order and how the cylinders are numbered?

If he can explain all this I would feel a lot more enlightened.

All the best,

John."

Reply from Andy:-

Re: Merak ignition timing.

OK, Merak with Bosch ignition:

Cylinder pattern as follows:

3        4

2        5

1        6

                              (Distributor here)

You are right that the firing order is odd but also that the cap is used for a Volvo engine as well (and therefore the numbering on the cap cannot be relied on). The firing order is 162534 and the rotor arm turns anticlockwise when viewing the distributor from above.

Hope this helps.

Andy."

Steve in the UK writes:

"Hello Enrico, me again!!!

Hi! Hope you can help.

I have a 1976 Merak which does not have seals around the side windows. Should it have seals and if so is their some where I can them from?

Now the bigger probelm. The clutch is slipping!! I have adjusted it and this has helped a lot, but it still slips if I rev too hard after a gear change and I can smell it burning!! There is loads of room still for adjustment. Is this all it needs or is it hiding a bigger problem? The clutch was replaced quite recently.

I would be greatful for any help.

Steve."

Reply from Andy:-

Re: Merak Window Seals and Clutch.

Merak side window rubbers and clutch.

There are numerous rubbers around the side windows and you are not specific. Basically, there is a door seal around the entire aperture of the door frame. This is available from most trim shops such as Woolies. Originally Maserati would have mitrered the corner at the back of the door but now you just buy it in a length. Judicious chopping with a Stanley knife gives the same result. There is also a rubber section around the stainless steel frame on top of the door. This is only available from Bill McGrath Maserati who had it made some years ago. Then there are the draught excluders on both the inside and outside of the window ledge. Something similar to the original is also available from trim shops. Then there is the channel which the glass slides up and down in, again easily available from trim shops. Lastly, there is the rubber seal around the quarterlight. This is not available but again, you should be able to match up something close.

Re: The clutch.

You should adjust it to the point where you have just a little bit of movement on the fork. ie. if you can rattle it from side to side then that is sufficient. If this is not enough to stop the slipping, then you have no option but to take the clutch out again. If you can only get the clutch to stop slipping by adjusting to the point of no movement or freeplay then same thing applies as although it might work for a while, it will damage the release bearing.

It is normal however that a new clutch beds in somewhat and requires further adjustment. All may not be lost!

Hope this helps.

Andy."

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