My Biturbo Spyder isn't feeling very well.
Can you help? Please!

Any owner having a problem with their Maserati can send me details and I will publish these, together with any subsequent advice I receive, on this page.

Just drop me a line


Even if I don't succeed in helping you with your problems; and I do try, it would help other Maserati owners a great deal if you could let me know how you managed to solve your problems. THANK YOU!


Rob in ? writes:-


Re: Problem with my speedometer!!

"I own a 1995 2.8 Maserati Spyder. My speedo will not go above 65 kph.

I have cleaned all the spade conections at the sensor and at the instrument console.

The speedo gauge moves freely by hand. I have removed the sensor from the gearbox and this is also free.

Have you any suggestions on some checks or tests to find what the problem may be.




Reply from Andrea:-


Re: Problem with my speedometer!!

"I think it is most likely to be the instrument. They are actually amazingly cheap to buy at the moment so I would buy a new one from Maserati.



Tim in ? writes:-


Re: Timing belt replacement!!


I have just bought a 1989 Maserati Spyder and the timing belt was already off.

How do I set the timing belt and what should I check to see if there was any damage?

Thanks for your help.



Reply from Enrico:-


Re: Timing belt replacement!!!


Do you know under what circumstances the timing belt was removed or broken?

If the timing belt was removed manually, and for the life of me I can't think why, then you should have no problems after following the instructions given in the Biturbo Workshop Manual.

If the timing belt broke while the engine was running and the car was being driven, then chances are you will have some bent or broken valves. If the car was being driven particularly fast at the time of that breakage, then you will probably have a holed piston or two. Although you might be lucky and this is not the case.

If you don't know the circumstances, your best course of action wuld be to remove both cylinder heads and ascertain what damage may have been done, if any. This will not be cheap as the cylinder head gasket kit is quite expensive. But look at it this way, it's an ideal opportunity to de-coke and overhaul the heads. Remember, you can't have the heads skimmed too much if they need it. See the Workshop Manual for details.

If you check the WORKSHOP section of my site you will see the full contents of the Biturbo Workshop Manual (Engine I, Engine II and Engine III). Here you should find all the information you will need for servicing your Biturbo Spyder's engine.

Good luck, sounds as though you will need it!



Aad in The Netherlands writes:-


Re: I hear a 'flubbing' sound!!

"First let me say you have a wonderful site!...I use it everyday.

I own a 2.8 BiTurbo-Spyder from 1991 with 45.000 km.

Under boost conditons (when the turbos start working), I hear a 'flubbing' sound like air/water escaping. I checked the complete turbo and exhaust system and they seem to be in top-condition. Also the turbos are both in very good condition. For the rest the car is also running 100%. Do you have any ideas? Thank you very much. Aad."


Ed in the USA writes:-


Re: Air pump and not starting when hot!!

"Hi Enrico,

Firstly may I say you have a wonderful site for Q&A but I wrote to you once before and had a hard time trying to find my question and your subsequent answer so can I ask you to reply to these questions directly to my email.....please.

1) The air pump that is located near the front drivers side is continuously on. It used to come on for 8-10 seconds and then turn off but now stays on continuously. There is no difference in performance. any ideas?

2) I drove the car the other day....(outside temp was approx 20 degrees celcius) turned it off, did my business, got back into it and tried to start but the car would not fire. The car cranked and the engine turned but would not start no matter how many times I tried. Listened for the fuel pump when the ignition was on and it worked but I could not check for spark as I was on my own. Had it towed home where I tried it again and guess what...first turn of the key....fired and running smoothly. I now am afraid to drive the car just in case this problem happens again...any ideas???

Thanks for your assistance in these niggly little matters and any answers will be greatly appreciated.




Reply from Andrea:-


Re: Air pump and not starting when hot!!!

"1). This pump is for the heating system and when it runs continuously, it usually means a split hose in the vacuum system meaning that the pump has to run all the time to maintain a vacuum.

2). I presume this is a carburettor car, in which case you are probably experiencing vapour lock in the carb/plenum area and a certain amount of this is normal Im afraid.

If it is an injection car, then you should check the relays that run the fuel injection system.



Ed in the USA writes:-


Re: Fitting a new clock!!

"My 87 Biturbo Spyder has the battery powered analogue clock (usually working BTW). I recently acquired a powered clock from Italy (from a 222 ?) and want to replace the battery powered clock. The newer clock is slightly larger which will require a slight modification to dash area and a tie in to the onboard electrics.

Do you or any of the other great folks on this board have a set of instructions or diagrams as what and where to tie in?




Ron in Australia writes:-


Re: Niggly little problems!!


Ron again from Sydney Australia. My '87 Spyder 2.5i is running quite well however there are a couple of niggly little problems which I would like to overcome.

(1) The air pump does not turn off at all. This is a new problem as I have always been used to ignition on, fuel pump runs and air pump runs then after a minute or so they both turn of but now the air pump keeps going. Is there an easy fix for this? does not impede the cars performance in any way, just annoying, can you help.

(2) when I accelerate the engine seems to hold back a little in little jumps (hard to explain but its like it has little misses on the way to full power.....its not a smooth run from start to full power) this only happens when I floor the accelerator to take the car to full power but when driving normally but briskly through the gears, it is ok.....any ideas?

(3) I had my gearbox rebuilt a few years ago and I am wondering if I should change the oil in the unit. It is ok but I was wondering if it would help.

(4) Just a point of interest to everyone out in Biturbo land...I was on a driving holiday recently in a little state called Tasmania. Drove of the boat and down the freeway to the Capital city of this state (3hr drive) suddenly a high pitched grinding noise came from the front of the car and I had no brakes....Now I am driving at 130kph and 9 at night so you can imagine the concern I had......guess what...front wheel bearing cooked....9 at night in the middle of nowhere only with my mobile and my strong suggestion is GET THE WHEEL BEARINGS CHECKED they are only a cheap part but can cause a great deal of trouble when they go....

Ta Mate."


Reply from Andrea:-


Re: Niggly little problems!

"(1) If you mean the air pump in the inner wing that provides vacuum for the heater flap operation then you should find that either one of the pipes is disconnected or holed behind the dash.

(2) Have you replaced the HT lead set?

(3) Yes. Always a good idea to change the oil every 12,000 miles was the Maserati recommendation but these days every two years is probably more realistic.



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