Hi Enrico, I progressed a lot and my car is back on the road, thanks to the many tips I received. Engine is working fine, great acceleration ! Meanwhile, for everybody with electrical problems I have some good tips: - REMOVE THE FUSEBOX AND CHECK ALL CONTACTS, a few hours work but it is well worth it. I had 3 bad contacts that caused my electricity to sometimes work, and sometimes not. - LEARN THE ELECTRICAL SCHEMES, you can find many broken wires or bad contacts but colours of wires can be different. - REMOVE THE ALARM SYSTEN, if not required. This was the source af several shortcuts in my car. - TAKE GREAT CARE WHEN REPLACING RELAYS, you have 3 different types of relays and most of them are not compatible with standard relays. - CHECK ALL PLUG LEADS, (all of them). I had the impression that I had no ignition so I tested the ECU a lot, but at the end it was one lead coming from the coil which was not right. Later I had one lead going to a spark plug that was also damaged. - CHECK THE VOLTAGE. I was under the impression the engine was not running stable but later it turned out that the alternator was not working (still to replace, any idea about a compatible one ?). - I also fixed a diode in my ECU, but I think I blew it up myself by creating a bad contact. All the best, Johan.

My 4.24v isn't feeling very well.
Can you help? Please!

Any owner having a problem with their Maserati can send me details and I will publish these, together with any subsequent advice I receive, on this page.

Just drop me a line at maserati123@btopenworld.com


Even if I don't succeed in helping you with your problems; and I do try, it would help other Maserati owners a great deal if you could let me know how you managed to solve your problems. THANK YOU!


Johan in ? writes:


Dear Enrico,

I just bought a 4.24v from 1991 which needs some repair.


Johan's Maserati 4.24v. 1a serie


Johan's Maserati 4.24v. 1a serie


Johan's Maserati 4.24v. 1a serie


Johan's Maserati 4.24v. 1a serie


After installing a new battery and refilling the oil, I was able to get the engine running again quite easily.

Initially everything worked well, but now all of a sudden some control lights stay on even when I remove the key. After a while fuse #13 was broken (and e.g. the lights were no longer working).

I already tested the ignition key and this one still seems okay. I have the impression that I have a short circuit because of water or a relay that is blocked, but so far I have been unable to detect the problem.

I downloaded meanwhile the electrical scheme and started to study it but maybe someone has a similar experience.

I continued investigating the problem and detected two relays under the dashboard and not mounted properly. From all cables leaving the relays (I think it is the ignition relay the white wire is no longer connected. (See picture). Maybe some knows where to connect the wire and I can save some time.


The fuse box on Johan's 4.24v. 1a serie

All help is welcome.

Kind regards,



Dimosthenis in Sweden writes:


Hello Enrico,

I have a '93 Biturbo 4.24v and recently I have experienced something that concerned me much. I had a long trip (within Sweden where I live) and at the beginning of the trip I saw that the oil pressure indicator was showing 0. Later on the index was 'playing' up and down showing sometimes normal and sometimes 0 or and other times somewhere in between. I also checked that the temperature was some higher than usuall around 90°C but not above.

Can it be that has to be added some oil? I checked it before I started driving and surprisingly was OK.

Thank you for your time.



Luis in Barcelona writes:


Another unfortunate Maserati 4.24v.

"Hi Enrico!!!

I have a Maserati 4.24 MkII with a broken engine. First time the engine broke because of a water pump failure. I took out the engine, rebuilt it, and fitted a new water pump and a new timing belt.

When I was fitting the tensioner belt I found it did not fit properly and decided to replace it with a new one, but I received a different belt. I adapted the different tensioner and it worked correctly, at least for a few days, but one day, the tensioner support broke and the engine broke down again.

I think the problem is the bad work of the tensioner distribution belt.

Now I buy a cheap second hand complete engine, it's in very good condition, and my question is:

What can we do to secure the good job of the tensioner, do you know something about a kit to secure the timing belt?

The engine numbers of the two engines are this:

- Used engine AM475*003227*

- Original engine AM475*602228*

Another question is the clutch, I replaced it the first time and this is also wrong, and now it do a very strange noise when I press on the pedal. I need to change the thrust bearing again by correct one.

Where can I buy spare parts to refit the engine and clutch correctly and be sure of buying correct parts?

Thank you very much, and sorry by my poor English.



Gerhart in Norway writes:


My unfortunate Maserati 4.24v.

"Hi Andrea,

Thank you very much. To get confirmed that we did it right is already a big help. We are quite alone up here in the north.

We do the whole job one more time, so let`s hope we find the fault.

We metered the compression again and the figures were:

1.cyl. 5
2.cyl. 3,5
3.cyl. 4
4.cyl. 6
5.cyl. 3,5
6.cyl. 6,5

That`s not too good I think.




Reply from Andrea:


"You are right. This is not too good and it looks like you will at least have to take the cylinder heads off. Before you do, why don’t you carry out a cylinder leakage test to see whether your lack of compression is due to valve problems or pistons?



Gerhart in Norway writes:


"I hope I can get some help for my unfortunate Maserati 4.24v.

The story is as follows:

I bought a Maserati 4.24v (mod. 1994, km 38.000, a jewel) in Napoli, Italy, and wanted to drive it all the way up to Oslo, Norway. Around Bologna on the motorway I crashed the car. The left front side of the car was quite demolished. I got the car up to Norway, got the cassis and the paint fixed. So far, so good.

Now the engine won't start.

What I have done to get it started:

. Charged the battery.

. Replaced the timing belt and turned the engine by hand. No problem.

. Found switch for fuel supply in the luggage booth. Found that the fuel hose was broken, repaired it, and checked that the fuel is circulating under pressure.

. Inserted new spark plugs, turned the engine with full throttle, spark plugs were wet with fuel, so fuel was OK.

. Checked that there is a spark on all spark plugs. OK.

. Turned the engine and timed all pistons, so that they were at the top at the right ratio of the rotor arm. Everything is OK.

. Replaced the crankshaft sensor and the map sensor.

. Tried with a new ECU.

. Lubricated all el. contacts and cleaned all relays.

The engine still does not start. And there is gas in the fuel tank.

So what do I do wrong? Can anybody help me?

Kind regards,



Reply from Andrea:


"The trouble with this is that if everything you say is working is working then the engine should start! If this were in our workshops, we would go back to basics. You need fuel, ignition and compression and then you need them in the right order…



Yasin in Turkey writes:


"Selam Enrico,

Hello Enrico,

1993 4.24v 91.000 km, de bir Maseatim var.

Hello Enrico I have 1993 4.24V Maserati.

Bazı elektrik ateşleme problemlerim var. Anlatayım.

I have electric ignition problems.

Bir gün arabamı bayağa bir yordum. Uzun süre trafikte dur-kalk dur-kalk yaklaşık 3,5 saat sürdü bu. Bu süre içerisinde aracımın alternatöründe de problemim vardı. Aküyü tam şarz etmiyordu.

One day I really tired my car in a very heavy traffic. The road took 3.5 hours. During this time I had problems also with the alternator. The battery was not being charged completely.

Alternatör probleminden olsa gerek dönüş yolunda araba iki de bir stop etmeye başladı ben de arabanın devrini hep yüksek tutarak viteste olmasa bile gaza basarak akü şarzının yeterli seviyede kalması için gaza basılı gidiyrdum.

I think on the way back due to my alternator problems my car kept stalling. I kept the revolutions high, even when in neutral, by pressing the accelerator in order to keep the battery charged.

Neyse br şekilde tamirhaneye getirdim arabayı.alternatör aküyü şarz etmiyor dediler değiştirdik alternatörü. Değiştirdikten sonra araba teklemeye başladı güçsüz çalışıyordu. Araştırdık. 6 silindirden 3 ü çalışıyormuş. Kabloları kontrol ettik onlarda bir problem yok. En sonunda tevzi makarasını da kontrol ettik problemin onda olduğuna karar verdik. onu da değiştirdik.

Anyway like this I took it to be fixed. They said the alternator was not charging. We changed the alternator. Then the car started losing power. We investigated and found that only 3 out of the 6 cylinders were working. We checked the ignition wires there was no problem. We eventually found the distributor rotor arm to be the problem so we changed it.

Ben arabayı yaklaşık 4 aydan beri kullanmıyorum. Araba gidince tekrar aynı problemleri yapacak mı?

I am driving the car since 4 months. When the car goes will I have the same problems?

ayrıca motor da hava alıyor gibi geliyor bana.

Plus it looks to me the engine is taking air.

bir de kalkışlarda arkadan şaftın oradan açıkça dişli sesleri duyabiliyorum. Ama kalktıktan sonra kesiliyor.

Also I can hear clearly the sound of the DISLI??? from the back around the drive shaft.

en son olarak da araba durur haldeyken gaza bastığımda 4000-4500 devirin üstüne çıkmıyor. Bir kere yürür haldeyken de denedim. Yine çıkmıyor. Bunun nedeni ne olabilir?

As of last when I give gas the revolution does not pass 4000 – 4500 rev. I tried when on road still it does not go over. What could be the reason?



Brent in Sicily writes:



I have just bought a Maserati 422 and I am having a little trouble. When I drive the car after it has sat for a few a hours it drives great, but after it warms up it begins to loose vasts amounts of power and starts to stutter. The stuttering is so bad that it feels like someone else is slamming the brake rapidly while I am trying to accelerate. I have replaced the wires, plugs and fuel pump. Another problem is when the car is cold the speedometer doesn't work, and after the car is warm it begins to work and that is when the problems start with the stuttering. I can't see how the problems are related but at this point I am completely lost. If you could help me in any way it would be greatly appreciated.




Reply from Andy:


"Sounds like the usual problems – either the earthing to the body from the battery is poor or the rotor arm is faulty. Speedo problem not related, mostly likely dodgy connection to sender.



Yasin in Turkey writes:


"Hi Enrico,

I have 1993 4.24v., 91.000 kms.

I have some electrical ignition problems. Let me tell you.

One day I tired my car very much when I was caught for 3½ hours in a traffic jam, (my car also had alternator problems), and then it stopped while I was driving.

Then I took my car to the garage and they said distributor rotor arm and pin needed to be changed and after the rotor arm had been cleaned I took my car back.

I went to gas station to fill up. I started my car and I drove 200/300 km then it stopped, no mechanical noise, nothing. Everthing shut down.

The garage has been working on my car for 2 months.

Finally they fitted a new rotor arm today (they said 3 cylinders on, 3 cylinders off too before while old rotor arm was on my car).

What can you advice to me.



MIchael in Denmark writes:


"Appreciate your help .... (Michael, Denmark 4.24 1993 (produced 92).

Changing the wire that - as you suggested - was actually shorting ground did not help, but one learns to live with small "issues" like that. Anyway the wire was really defective....

So was another wire I found behind the glove-compartment - coming from the air-con, once in a while the air-con stopped working. That is fixed now !! It was burned and was therefore easy to spot.

My Odometer works if I twist one of the wires going to the printed circuit controlling all the gauges in the dashboards. So I expect to find a loose or broken wire behind it - Q: Is it at all possible to replace the printed circuit board or should I just replace component on the print if the rectifiers are gone ... I was thinking that if some of those are gone maybe the minus/ground looks for other ways to "escape" causing the battery charge lamp to go on ??

Last question - My oil pressure gauge is defective - I have no problems with the pressure only the gauge .... It seems like the membrane is dead, during idle the oil pressure light comes on - as soon as I give gas - it stops illuminating. My question is - is that membrane available? Does my theory stick or suck ... can it be something else.

Thanks for your great site ... it is really appreciated.

Best regards,



Reply from Andy:


"Oil pressure gauges can be faulty. Usually the sender located near the oil pump on the engine which is available as a new unit from Maserati.




MIchael in Denmark writes:



My name is Michael I am the new owner of a 1992 produced 4.24 model - originally imported to Denmark back in 1993 - very well kept since then with a full service history. 122K on the clock and only driven during the summer.

I contacted the garage that have kept the car last 8 years as I had problems with engine not being stable at Idle - going up and down.

Also problem with engine cutting out at 4,500 rpm and battery indicator light coming on just as decribed by Shane from Portugal in his e-mail.

The garage replaced the rotator - or is it called distributor in English? They adjusted the turbos and also found an open wire going to ground, causing the battery indicator to come on.

Anyway that was what he explained when I picked up the car after 8 days ....

I paid an arm and a leg and still have the same problems - though the engine is not fluctuating as much at idle, but the engine still cuts out at around 4400-4500 rpm - still the battery light comes on, and now the Odometer stopped working (Bonus) I can get in back "on line" by lightly punching on top or side of the frame sorounding all the meters but only for a very limited time.

Any advise ... other then selling the car - is very much appriciated.

Forgot to mention it runs fantastic - great push during acceleration, engine is great, and as mentioned extremely well kept.

Best regards and thanks for a very useful and recommendable site.



Reply from Andy:


"This is a strange one as the usual cause of cutting out at 4000rpm is the rotor arm in the distributor. If the complete distributor has been replaced then this is unlikely in which case try the body ground connection (from the negative terminal on the battery, the cable goes to the engine but on the way goes through a crimped bracket to the body (near the battery) which sometimes gives this trouble if it has corroded).



Marco from the Netherlands writes:



I own a 4.24v IIa serie '93. I mentioned there is some oil in blowpipes from the turbo. Can it do harm to the turbos or the engine?

I've raed an article that says there is are replacement turbos for the older types of IHI. Is it possible for direct replacement?

Now I want to know the specs of my two turbos on the car.

Can you tell me more about them please?




Pieter from the Netherlands writes:



I own a 1992 4.24V. The problem is that my active suspension panel is on a permanent green, but when I press it changes to red and does not shift suspension settings. As a result it is permanently in the second softest setting. Now I have had my garage work on the steering column when the steering got a bit heavy and I am not sure if this could cause the defect. Please also see your reply in the 2.24 section:

"Unless you have fitted new tyres of a slightly different size or had any steering related work carried out then the problem is likely to be in the front springs as you suggest"

Now my questions are (i) how do I locate the faulty spring/damper, (ii) what do you think is wrong and (iii) how to fix it.

Hope you can help!



Reply from Andy:


"The way to check for a non-functioning shock motor is to switch ignition on and while someone operates the key pad from one to four, go round each wheel and listen for the motor working. No noise means no adjustment etc.



John in Spain writes:



Your help pages are very informative, and appreciated, as it is hard to find out good reliable info. on these cars.

I have a 1991 Biturbo 4.24v. It has covered 185,000km, but most of this was done on the motorway, as a VIPs courier car picking up people from Rome airport.

I recently changed the cambelt, and replaced the water pump and various pipes, plus a few other things, all at great cost. However, when driving away from the garage, I noticed the engine sounded ‘rough’. Further inspection revealed that the rotor arm under the distributor cap was loose - the central pin holding it together seemed to be a bad fit, and the engine was only firing on 5 cylinders. The garage cleaned the contacts, and all was well for a very short time - just enough for me to drive the car home! I had another mechanic try to fix it - he tightened up the rotor arm with two plastic plugs, cleaned all the contacts properly, and ordered six new spark plugs.

This is where the problems begin. Although ordering the correct plugs, the new ones do not have a threaded screw on the top, and therefore the extender does not fit on to it. How is this overcome? Do I need to find some new type of extender or longer leads? Surely changing plugs is a common event!

He then cleaned up the older plugs, and put them back in, matching up the leads which were numbered 1 to 6 with the numbers on the distributor cap, plus both A and B coil connectors - but the engine refused to fire. It does not backfire either. There was no smell of petrol on the plugs, so I put more fuel in the car (it was low, but not indicating empty, but was on a slope). I tried bump starting the car - nothing. There is a spark from both coils when connected to a plug, but the spark is a weak orange rather than strong blue.

I have ordered a new distributor cap and rotor etc. from a friend in Rome - I live in Spain - but am concerned as to whether that will solve the problem. Could the cap be ‘wired’ up wrongly despite following the numbers? Where can I find some ‘old’ stock spark plugs with the screw fitting on top? And what is the life expectancy of this engine? I have already had all the interior refurbished, and was also planning a complete re-spray paint job - is it worth it?

On the re-spray topic, I would ideally like to replace all the rubber surround door seals - does anyone do a kit for this? My car is metallic Rifle Grey, and what I need is the rubber surround with the grey fabric attached.

Many thanks for any help.

Kind Regards,



Reply from Enrico:


"Hi John,

The firing order is 1-6-2-5-3-4. The garage may have replaced the leads incorrectly. I any event, you should hear something, even a backfire, when you start the car. Below is a schematic drawing of the correct wiring set-up for the twin coil ignition system.

In a word, No. In the short term, the car is unlikely to appreciate in value, most four-door saloons don't. But if you really like the car and are not bothered about the cost, go ahead.

There are door seal kits available, more often from a classis car restorer suppliers. Problem is that it is impossible to cut a 45° angle, for the top angle by the door pillar, as they are normally metal reinforced. This poorly fabricated joint could allow rainwater to seep into the car. Best bet are direct replacement Maserati seals. These are available only in black, are sold in pairs LHS and RHS, in one size for all cars - you simply cut them to size on the sill. I am waiting for a price from Italy.




Murat in ? writes:


"Hi Enrico,

If you remember we bought one speed sensor, sender from you for my 4.24. As you told us we found one used speedometer card and changed it with ours and now the speedometer is working very well. Thank you for your advice.

However now we have problem with engine's rpm when it is running at normal speed (the car is manual). In the morning when we first start the engine there is no problem but then it loses its still condition and starts to flactuate. Exhaust emission values are also wrong and say that the car is consuming too much.

In the service they changed the oxygen sensor. When the oxygen sensor is put out of order by taking its socket off, the engine runs very well at idle, but when we again out the sensor in order by plugging its socket the motor loses its idle condition and again starts to fluctuate.

In the service they say there are 3 ways of adjusting its rpm (at normal speed).

1. By setting ECU (on the passenger side, under the console, near the transmission).

2. By settting Weber sensor near throat valve.

3. By setting air valve near this weber sensor.

What is the procedure to adjust rpm?

What is the order of these?

Should we plug the oxygen sensor off while adjusting?




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