John in the UK writes:

"Hello again Enrico,

Another question to tax the brain (You mean Andy's of course!).

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the Merak has a system of flaps that controls the flow (or distribution) of air through the car. These flaps are opened and closed by vacuum supplied via the inlet manifold. On my car there is a pipe from the inlet manifold to the advance/retard unit on the distributor, as you would expect (the ignition is the standard Maserati electronic system). From there it continues from the rear of the advance/retard unit to a large cylindrical object which I assume to be a vacuum reservoir. It then continues out of the other end of the cylindrical gadget, down through the tunnel to the aluminium rocker switch at the bottom of the central dash panel. From the switch the piping goes to the vacuum units that control the flaps. Do you know if all this is correct, particularly at the distributor end? I cannot understand how the vacuum supply can continue through the advance/retard unit.

Can you throw any light on this as I've convinced myself that my car has been set up incorrectly?

All the best,

John."

Reply from Andy:-

Re: Merak vacuum advance:

"Common problem. The vacuum advance mechanism should not be connected on the Merak. It is only there because Maserati bought the distributors in and that's how they came. Your vac circuit should be from inlet manifold to plastic reservoir and then off to the front. It appears to the uninitiated that this is an omission and quite a few cars have had the vac advance capsule connected up by well-meaning mechanics!

Andy."

Follow-up from John:

"Hello again Enrico (and Andy of course!),

Thanks for explaining the mysteries of the vacuum system to me. Never in a million years would I have thought of the solution. The more I looked at the problem the more mystified I became. As they say, the barriers were down, the lights were flashing, but in my case, the train definitely wasn't coming! Another question on the same subject. If there is no vacuum advance, does the ignition advance solely through the mechanical bob weights?

Finally, is the alloy box attached to the rear of the offside rear inner wing the electronic ignition unit?

Thanks again for a wonderful website, without it I for one would have awful problems looking after my car.

Why is it that the Merak is the car that generates the most questions?

Thanks again,

All the best,

John."

Reply from Andy:-

Re: Merak vacuum advance:

"Right on both counts. Yes, the bob weights are the only advance and yes, the box on the offside rear wing is the electronic ignition box.

Andy."

Steve in the UK writes:

"Hi Enrico,

I have a 1976 Maserati Merak. I have removed the airbox and filter, but would like to replace this with a separate filters or filter socks to each set of twin carbs to improve airflow. To save trouble I would prefer socks as they may be able to fit over the horns. I believe that the carbs are twin Weber 44DCNFs. I have tried Ramair and K&N, but they have had trouble finding a filter to fit the Weber 44s.

Can you recommend any filters that would fit?

Many thanks,

Steve."

Reply from Andy:-

Re: Merak airbox:

"I would not recommend this as it will undoubtedly harm the performance. In my experience, trumpet socks do nothing for the airflow anyway and if you get rid of the original air box you are getting rid of the cold air supply. The carbs would only breathe hot engine bay air and this would probably mean a drop in performance. If you want to improve the breathing, the only real option would be to have K&N manufacture a free flow filter in the same design as the original so that it will fit in the same air box.

Andy."

Follow-up from Miki in the UK:

"Thanks Enrico and Andy,

A garage removed and disassembled the calipers and said the pistons are in excellent condition and moving OK. But yes, maybe there is something in the caliper causing them to stay on. After they were binding on and heated up, locking on, I undid the union on the brake line and they immediately sprang back and released.

Is there some brake valve before the calipers that could be stuck?

Many thanks for your continued help.

Miki."

Reply from Andy:-

Re: Merak SS:

"It occurs to me that the rear flexible brake hose could be the cause of the problem. If it is damaged inside or the rubber has reacted with the LHM fluid, it could be ballooning inside causing it to act like a one way valve. This is the hose from the block on the side of the chassis to the 'T' piece junction on top of the gearbox.

There is really nothing inside the caliper that could be causing this apart from the seal itself and if they go back easily when the pressure is released then this seems unlikely.

Hope this helps.

Andy."

Follow-up from Miki in the UK:

"Hi Enrico,

Thanks for the reply about my Merak with the back brakes binding on.

This problem started after the car was left standing for over a year. Then it had a new clutch. So I don’t think the clutch is the problem and I am sure the pipework is allright.

The rear calipers are free when the car is first started, but within a mile they start to bind on, heat up and bring the car to a halt.

I have today fitted a new brake control unit and the problem is still there.

Any ideas?

Regards, Miki."

Reply from Andy:-

Re: Merak SS:

"I think the problem must be that your calipers require overhaul. Nothing else would make sense. It may be that they are free when cold but not when hot.

Andy."

Miki in the UK writes:

"Hi Enrico,

I hope you can help.

My Merak SS has been standing for sometime and recently had a new clutch.

It drives fine clutchwise but the rear brakes pressure up and bind on within a mile or so stop the car. I have checked the caliper pistons and these can be pushed backwards so seem free and working. The big red light under the fuel gauge is on.

Also the brake pedal is very hard, no like a rock!

What do you think?

Regards,

Miki."

Reply from Andy:-

Re: Merak SS:

"Interesting!

This is a very unusual problem. Some suggestions are:

1. When the new clutch was fitted, some of the pipework was routed wrongly and you are pressurising the rear brakes with full hydraulic pressure from the main supply.

2. When you say that the rear caliper pistons are free - they can't be if they are holding the brakes on. Are you checking when everything has cooled down as you may have lost your hydraulic pressure by then? You would need to drive down the road until the brakes bind on, then check whether they are free with the engine still running.

3. The light under the fuel gauge is the low fuel warning light.

4. The brake pedal should be pretty much rock hard anyway - difficult to know whether this is a problem or not until you sample another car.

5. If you are sure that the pipework is right and the brakes are staying on while the engine is on, then the problem is likely to be with the brake master cylinder which has a balance bar type arrangement. Does seem a bit of a co-incidence if as I presume, everything was OK before the clutch was fitted.

Let me know how you get on.

Andy."

Julian in the UK writes:

"Hi, I am wondering whether you can help me on a purely cosmetic question.

On my Merak SS there is no passenger wing Italdesign badge yet this seems to be on many published photographs of the cars. There never appears to be a badge on the driver's side.

Would all cars have had this or was this on a limited number of vehicles?

Regards,

Julian."

Reply from Enrico:-

Re: Merak badges:

Hi Julian,

The Italdesign badge was only placed on the driver's side for left-hand drive models. On right-hand drive models it would appear on the same side, but this would now be the passenger side.

Hope this helps,

Enrico."

Follow-up from Andy:-

Re: Merak badges:

Hi Julian,

All Meraks had the Ital Design badge on the LH front wing. Never on the other side!

Andy."

John in the UK writes:

"Hello Enrico,

I am looking for a master cylinder for a 1979 Maserati Merak SS, can you help me?

Or do you know of a alternative application that will work, i.e. a cheaper and more available option.

Thanks,

Jason."

Reply from Andy:-

Re: Merak master cylinder:

If you have your original cylinder, then the best policy would be to get it reconditioned. This can be done by Pleiades in Cambridgeshire. Tel: 01487 831239. As far as I know, there is no alternative.

Cheers,

Andy."

George in the UK writes:

"Hi,

I am trying to get a Maserati Merak sorted out for a friend and it has two big problems left:-

1. The starter motor is on it's last legs - is there an inexpensive replacement without going back to the factory for a very expensive replacement?

2. The voltage regulator for the alternator is duff - is there a standard type that will fit.

The car is a 1976 3.0L SS V6. The starter is a pre-engaged type with the solenoid mounted on top. The voltage regulator is the type that mounts on the inner rear wheel arch behind the battery (not on the alternator).

Any help would be very much appreciated.

Regards,

George."

Reply from Andy:-

Re: Merak problems:

The starter motor is a problem. To my knowledge, they are not available new at all. If it is just lazy then my advice would be to get it overhauled by an electrical specialist. If however, you have a problem with the pinion gear, then you will have to look for a second hand one.

As a 1976 car, I presume you have the Paris Rhone alternator and again, the voltage regulator for this is not available. If you want to persist with it, you could try to find one from a Citroen SM which is the same. Alternatively, it is relatively easy and cheap to fit a Lucas ACR alternator with a built in regulator and change the wiring to suit. If you do this, beware of the pulley - use the original pulley for the polyflex belt as these have a narrower angle V than most normal belts.

Cheers,

Andy."

John in the UK writes:

"Hello Enrico,

Could you tell me how to access the oil filler hole in the steering rack? The book says it contains SAE 90, but it doesn't tell me how to get to it!

Also, could you clarify the situation regarding running these engines on unleaded petrol?

Best wishes,

John."

Reply from Andy:-

Re: Merak Steering rack:

There is no filler as such. All you can do is to unclip one of the gaiters and then inject the oil in. Better if the rack is removed but not essential.

The Merak and SM engines all had hardened valve seats and therefore do not need leaded fuel to combat valve seat recession. They do however need a highish octane fuel to give the best performance. Superunleaded (97 Ron) is the minimum octane you should consider and if you want the best, try an additive like Tetraboost which will give you up to 100 octane - equivalent to the old five star fuel.

Cheers,

Andy."

Steve from ? writes:

"Hi,

Hope you can help. I have a 1976 RHD Maserati Merak . Whilst getting in the car I snapped off the steering column rotating switch that controls the main headlights. I can still raise and lower them and I can still control the front sidelights with my other light switch, but cannot now switch on the main lights.

I have not completely detached the switch, it is still held on by a wire (I think controls the washers or horn?!, by a button push on the end of the stalk). The horn goes when I push it! And I can see a semi-circular copper strip that has come out of the steering column, but don't know where to poke it back to make the lights work! If I knew, the switch is probably gluable!

Any help would be hugely appreciated!

Steve."

Reply from Andy:-

Re: Merak control stalks:

This is a very common problem. To carry out a proper repair, you will have to remove the whole column stalk - after removing the steering wheel. It will be the plastic boss for the stalk which has broken and you will have to take a view on whether this can be glued or not. If not, then you may be able to make a similar piece in nylon or such like that will do the job. Fiddly but worthwhile. Otherwise, a new stalk assembly ia available but will be seriously expensive.

Cheers,

Andy."

Mike from New Zealand writes:

"Hi,

I am maintaining a Merak for a good friend its a 1974 model and has hydraulic brakes that are very very sensitive especially at low speed they can easily lock up when slowing down to almost stopped apox under 20mph. I have done the accumulator tests and the headlights raise and lower plenty of times with engine not running and the brakes also function aprox 15 times also. The hydrauic pump only cuts in at idle once every five or more minutes. It has had the hydraulic pump, sphere and regulator replaced with Citroën units recently (year or two max).

1/ What is the system pressure when operating 1800psi-2000psi?

2/ How much charge should be in the sphere and accumulators 580psi?

3/ Where do we get a book for servicing and testing the hydraulic system? (only have an engine manual and pieces of the handbook)

4/ The low pressure switch apears to be faulty also and has been disconnected. If connected l/h red warning light flashes continuously.

5/ The r/h red warning light?? Doesn't go at all????

I would be greatful for any help.

Regards,

Mike."

(Maserati and Lambo fan Downunder ..New Zealand !!)

Reply from Andy:-

Re: Merak brakes:

"It sounds as though the system is basically in good condition from a pump and accumulator point of view. If the brakes feel too sensitive and you are locking up the fronts only, then maybe the brake bias is wrong and too much effort is going to the front. There is a small balance bar on the brake master cylinder which may be your next mission! To my knowledge, there is no manual for these systems. You could gain some extra info from a Citroen manual of any description - even the full SM manual would help, but that's all I'm afraid.

Regarding the other issues. The low pressure light is an absolute necessity for safety (although from everything you say, there does not appear to be any problem with pressure). You should be able to track that down from a Citroen dealer. The warning lights on the dash are very confusing but should be connected as follows:

Left hand light: Should warn you of low front brake pad material. It will initially come on continuously and then after a few seconds will flash.

Right hand light: Has dual function. Will warn you of low hydraulic pressure BUT will also warn you if you have left the handbrake on. It has the same mechanism as the other one, i.e. will come on continuously first and then flash.

It may be that yours are the other way round on the dash but the combination of functions should be the same. You should be able to work this out!

Cheers,

Andy."